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Jake's Wimshurst Machine and How to Build It! (Part 1)

Jake von SLatt's Wimshurst MachineLast year I wrote an article for Make Magazine volume #17 that described the construction of an electrostatic generator of electricity, a Wimshurst Influence machine, using parts and materials commonly available at your local home center and hardware store.

I was a little surprised and quite pleased when I realized that the contract from O'Reilly Media (the publishers of Make:) had me retaining copyright for the material I submitted.  What I sold to O'Reilly was basically a right to use and to publish first.

So here it is for your enjoyment! This is the first of a five part series detailing the construction of a Wimshurst Influence machine!  (UPDATE: added large dimensioned drawing.)

 

  

Part 1 - Overview, Materials, and Tools

When assembling a laboratory, the gentleman or lady experimenter should be sure to include a Wimshurst electrostatic generating machine. Not only will this device serve tirelessly for investigations in the field of natural philosophy, interesting parlor games such as the electric kiss are also possible! Herein we will demonstrate the construction of such a Wimshurst machine with materials easily acquired from your local home center and hardware store.

Introduction:

Electrostatic machines have always seemed a little like magic to me. I've worked and played with electronics since I was about 6 years old, so I have a thorough understanding of induction and electromagnetism. However, electrostatics are a different thing entirely. These machines that create high voltage charges don't have the familiar coils of copper wire, permanent magnets, and commutators of conventional generators. They are made from brass, glass, and wood, and look more mechanical then electrical. But the coolest thing about electrostatic machines is that you can feel them working. As you begin to crank a Wimshurst machine you will hear it start to crackle and hiss with energy, you will smell the sharp scent of ozone produced and you'll feel the hair on your arm stand up as the Leyden jars charge.

Functional Overview:

The main components of a Wimshurst Influence machine are a pair of counter rotating disks with metal strips or sectors, a pair of charge collecting combs, and a pair of neutralizing bars with conductive brushes that contact the sectors. We're all familiar with the static shocks we receive after getting up from our seat and touching a door knob when the weather is dry. That act of separating your posterior from your chair causes a charge imbalance; a Wimshurst machine is essentially an idealized series of posteriors and chairs endlessly sitting and standing with a pair of collecting comb to gather the charge produced so that something useful may be done with it.

Our machine will be built from materials readily available at your local home center and hardware store and can be assembled using common hand tools. The most complicated operations will include some soldering but you will soon discover that attaching brass balls and rods in this manner is much easier then soldering integrated circuits or working with surface mount devices. However, it will require a somewhat larger iron and perhaps a small torch.

History:

Some of the earliest examples of electrostatic generators were build in the seventeenth century and generally consisted of a rotating armature made of amber, sulfur, or glass and a cloth or brush to create friction and induce a charge. These machines had highly variable levels of performance and were quite finicky. They were very dependent on the weather and low levels of moisture in the air and would often fail to function at all on a humid day.

Around 1860 the German physicists Wilhelm Holtz and August Toepler independently developed "influence" machines that created an electrostatic charge without the necessity of having a piece of cloth or fur in direct contact with the rotating armature. These machines did, however, require an initial source from a friction device to provide the charge imbalance that would then be amplified by the rotating machine.

In 1880 James Wimshurst, an English engineer and inventor, became interested in influence machines and started building examples of the most common machines of the time in his home workshop. To these machines he added his own modifications and improvements, refining the design of the metal sectors used by some and developing a machine with two counter rotating disks rather than the single rotating disk previously used. While he never applied for patents on his work, his refinements so improved the function of these influence machines that they became popularly known by his name.

Wimshurst machines were used by scientists and experimenters investigating electrostatics but also, and more significantly, by the medical profession. Wimshurst machines with multiple sets of disks were employed to excite X-ray tubes used in early medical imaging. Smaller Wimshurst machines were also employed to apply electric shocks directly to the patient. While it is unlikely that these shock treatments actually helped the patients of the day, once you get a chance to play with your own Wimshurst machine you will surely understand how a patient might believe that the machine must be doing something!

Wimshurst machines also had a place in Victorian entertainment. After a fine meal, guests would often adjourn to the parlor for games, discussion, and demonstrations of a scientific sort. One can imagine that the visceral aspect of the Wimshurst machine with its spinning glass disks, crackle of electrical discharge, and the loud report of the six-inch sparks generated must have made it particularly popular. And for the most adventurous, in the right sort of company, there was a demonstration known as the electric kiss.

When demonstrating the properties of electrostatics with the electric kiss, the two volunteers would stand on insulating surfaces. Each would touch one of the two charge collectors of the Wimshurst machine and then they would slowly and without any other part of their bodies touching, bring their lips together for the inevitable "tingle" of electricity.

Please note: it is recommend to demonstrate the electric kiss only with the Leyden jars taken out of circuit since leaving them in will result in quite a painful jolt. I expect the Victorian era contained its share of folks of both sadistic and masochistic bent who took delight in leaving the jars engaged!

Materials:

Figure 2 wimshurst-materials-blue-bg.jpg

In developing this particular project, I was careful to source material only from my local home center and hardware stores. The one item I was not able to find locally was the pair of large O-rings that I used for the drive belts. Sources for these are provided at the end of this bill of materials. In addition, you may not be able to find the exact hardware that I've used but there are many similar components and you should have little difficulty in finding alternatives.

  1. Fluorescent Lamp Protector Sleeve – used to make the two Leyden jars.

  2. Staircase Balusters – these will be the supports for the rotating disks.

  3. 1/8" Bronze Brazing Rod – will be used to fabricate all of the conductors. If you can't find this at your local hardware store look for a welding supply shop, they are sold by the pound and are incredibly useful for many things even if you don't own an oxyacetylene torch.

  4. Fiberglass Driveway Marker Rod – Make sure it's round and 5/16" in diameter; these will be the shafts and insulated supports.

  5. 3/8" OD Thin Wall Brass Tubing – one 3' section.

  6. Knick-Knack Shelf Kit – approximately 24" by 6". You can use any ¾" board you desire, the shelf included has a nice rail that will add to the overall look of the project.

  7. Inline Skate Replacement Wheels – Quantity 2.

  8. Lamp Parts – You will need a selection of lamp parts which may vary depending on what is available at your particular store. Pictured here are pull chains, finials, and ball nuts used to make parts of the charge collector combs and discharge electrodes. Also pictured are cabinet knobs which were not used in this project but would make good alternatives. See the charge collector construction step for details.

  9. 1" Copper Pipe Hangers – These you'll find in the plumbing section, they are copper plated steel.

  10. Solder wick (not pictured) – for the neutralizing brushes, you might have to visit Radio Shack for this.

  11. Rubber feet – Quantity 6.

  12. Clothes Line Pulleys – must be plastic.

  13. 3/16" Acrylic Glazing – enough to cut (2) 14" circles from. Polycarbonate will work too and is easier to work with but costs more than twice as much.

  14. Aluminum tape (not pictured) – found with the duct tape and HVAC supplies, get the kind with the peel off paper backing.

  15. Rubber O-ring belts (not pictured) – available from McMaster-Carr, part number: 94115K259 about $15 for a package of eight.

The total cost of purchasing the materials new is about $100. However, these are all relatively common items so a little scrounging and perhaps some dumpster diving should net you significant savings.

Tools:

  • Hack saw with fine tooth blade, coping saw, miter box
  • X-acto knife, scissors
  • Metal file, 400 grit sandpaper, #00 steel wool
  • Power drill, various drill bits inluding 5/16", a counter sink, and multi-step bit
  • #6-32 screw tap & handle
  • Small soldering torch and/or large solder iron
  • Miscellaneous screwdrivers and small pliers
  • Tape measure, ruler
  • Epoxy, cellophane tape, rosin core solder

(Full size image)

How to Build a Wimshurst Influence Machine - Part 2

Comments

How long and wide do the sectors have to be on one with only 16 of them?
please answer me

 The exact dimensions are on the drawing above - but they are not critical.

thank you soooooooo much!

Can this generator power a light bulb? if so, what is the maximum number of watts it can produce

if i wanted to scale this down to about half or maybe 1/3 its size, is there anything i have to change, or can i scale all of it the same?

 Should be no problem! I've seen working machines made with those un-silvered CD blanks.

can this generator light a light bulb, and if so, how many watts can it produce, (estimate)

 Not much, conventional electro-magnetic generators are MUCH more efficient.  I've seen people light an LED with some step down circuitry. 

I was thinking of using brass for the leyden jars and the plates instead of aluminum. Would it conduct as well?

Jake,
I do alot of work with PVCs. One cheap and favorite is to take different diameter pipes and cut them short and lengthwise, then heat them 'CAREFULLY' in the oven and flatten them between two pieces of MDF. I can make large flat sheets of PVC from 3/32" thick to 5/8" thick from all the different pipe I have about. I make a lot of projects from PVC.
That being said, once I was shop vaccing paper thin PVC chips from a large manifacturing project where I routered 1/4" thick PVC into specific shapes using a router template. The static charge building up in ME by vaccing these chips caused the discharge to happen from the side of my foot, past my shoe sole and to the concrete floor. (WHAP!) I litterally had to connect a wire from me to the grounded conduit pipes to complete vaccing. My conclusion is that PVC may have far better electro-static properties.

I once made a Lord Kelvin Thunderstorm device where water droplets fall through copper fittings into metal buckets and that creates static, a high voltage charge collects on the fittings from the motion of the droplets going through a tube, separating from the nozzle.. In early days they also tried powdered metals that did the same thing too, letting them fall like grains of sand.
I read this from a static electricity site, something that reminded me of what you are talking about. "In private communications M. Foster mentioned that if you blast a hair dryer through a PVC pipe after first wetting the inner surface of the pipe, the pipe becomes highly electrified." It does appear as if PVC would be a good dielectric to use. I have seen a few demonstrations where they create a static charge or spark just by rubbing a piece of PVC pipe with a cloth. Do you know of a company that sells PVC sheets in 18 inch diameters or so for cheap? Teflon is supposed to be about the best electronegative triboelectric material but it's expensive.
Here's the link title/article about PVC, way down towards the bottom of the page.
HUMANS AND SPARKS
The Cause, Stopping the Pain, and "Electric People"

And creating high voltage from water droplets flowing through tubes. In this case I used the static to drive the bell clappers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4WvZAVQtjk

A question about my wimshurst machine: My current disc setup is 14" plexi with 18 eq. spaced copper strips 3/4" X 3" each. would there be any advantage to adding a 1/4" x 3" copper strip between the 3/4" strips and if so what might be the result by having different width strips on the discs? anyone can email me with their thoughts on this subject, and thank you. DRJ
dr11642j@charter.net

what would you have to do to the generator to get it to generate enough power to run a small clock, digital or otherwise? also is the shape of the plates critical or do you just have to have the mass?

generating usable power out of it will not only be difficult, but be inefficient. The Wimshurst generates thousands of volts, not much for amps, but voltage is way high. You might have much better fun experimenting with junk 3, 6 and 12 VDC motors as generators. Find a motor that kicks out a nice solid 1.5- 1.7 volts while spinning the shaft in your drill. Then make wind turbine blades for it and put it outside like a lawn ornament. Run wires inside to convert the AC to DC with a bridge rectifier (radio shack), have it charge a bank of AA batteries, have those batteries monitored, perhaps charge regulated, run clocks that run off 1.5 volts, little lights, etc... hey, that would be fun to light streetlights and run a clock tower in a scale train layout off an outdoor generator... mini utility company! he, he, he.
I am toying with a 207VDC motor that generates 12V at 5+ amps with a good wind off 3' blades like in Make: issue # 5, for my garage. I will power low voltage outdoor accent lights, any 12V automotive accessory, etc... all off a bank of marine batteries and a wind generator.

I was thinking more for the aesthetic effect it would add. I know there are some cheap gray plastic analog clocks that run off a single AA and they last forever, I don't know what they look like inside but it would probably be a simple thing to rip it out and put it on a nice brass/wood frame. That is a good idea for the VDC motor though I'm going to be making a outside light in the middle of this pathway we have and it would be nice not having to run a power line out to it, although I live on the west coast in very rainy Washington how would a generator of that kind handle the rain and other elements?

Hi,
I'm new to all this, I've always wanted to build something like a Wimhurst Machine. My question is this, is it possible to link a Wimhurst machine so as to have the spark run up two copper rods like a Jacobs Ladder? or does the Jacobs ladder require a differant type of power than static electricity?
I look forward to any replys,
Mark.

The static charge in a Wimshurst has to build up in the capacitors (leyden jars) before it will discharge in an arc. Just like the lightning in the sky, static has to build up over time before it discharges in a lightning bolt. You need a steady high voltage supply to create a jacobs ladder. (neon sign transformer)
Ever wonder why the jacobs ladder arc travels up? The spark should stay at the lowest part of the 'V' because it is the path of least resistance, right? Actually the spark ion charges the air and heats the air in the spark. Heat rises, and the ionized air is the path of least resistance, rising up higher and higher. Untill the gap is so wide, the arc stops at the top and begins at the bottom because now THAT is the path of least resistance.

Thank you for your very prompt reply. It would seem then, that if I want to build a Jacob's Ladder, i will need to get hold of a neon sign transformer.
Thank you again for the fast reply.
Mark

Hi,
In the drawing of the Wimshurst you give dimentions of 3.5" long 1.5" outer and .75" inner for the metal fins on the disk. This is for 16 fins as you state, but is their a formula for working out the size of the metal fins if you want to add more or less than the 16 in the plans.

Thanks in advance.

Mark

Hi,
in the materials pic 15 is the crank but in the list 15 are the o-rings. So i was wondering what the crank is

Oh! It's a casement window replacement crank from Home Depot.

Thanks Jake i can now continue with my construction

I was wondering if 1/4 inch thick acrylic would work as well/or well enough as the 3/16 thick material used in the project? Have you tried thinner acrylic sheets to see if it increases the spark? It seems it would help to get the plates as close as possible without them being too flimsy to maintain a flat shape or insulated enough to prevent a failure of the dielectric to insulate the two discs from each other if arcing would be a problem.
Or have you made larger machines with a thicker acrylic. I went to a store yesterday that had 1/4 inch for sale but not 3/16. And the other stores had too thin of material. Have you noticed a difference between acrylic and polycarbonate, one being better for producing higher voltages for the same thickness? I read that you prefer the polycarbonate qualities of workability if not for the higher price.

PS
I just noticed in your list of parts for part # 13 you call for 3/16" glazing. In the drawing plans it has 1/8" disc.

Great, I love it!
,

I am at the end of building your Wimshurst and don't quite understand does the neutralizing bar mount to the upper shaft . isthe bar supposed to be stationary or is it supposed to rotate ? I guess its because my upper shaft is spinning while i tested the belt tension and I quastion the fact that it spins a little has me concerned.

The neutralizing bars are fixed, the top axle should not spin. Put a drywall screw through the support and into the axle to act as a set-screw to keep it from rotating.

I have since tried everything
new layden jars as instructed only difference I used copper tube instead of brass for the shaft
changing the discs from poly carbonite to g10 material my electrician told me he used this material and it produced 11 inch sparks .
I have the discs turning corectly no wobbling . the u shaped collector bars that have the little wires soldered to them are not touching it took quite awhile to accomplish that. the neutralizing bars i did not find any solder wick at the local radio shack so I used 00 welding cable wire very fine and flexible wire soldering it to the ends of the brass rod.
we wanted to use brass /aluminum/copper metals in the layden jars to see if this would create a different spark along with using 2 types of discs for our research.

this was supposed to be a fun science fair project with my 8th grade daughter and has become very disappointing. I consider myself mechanically inclined for I own (34 years ) my own collision repair facility and have accomplished some very challenging science fair projects in the past.

this one just can't get it going ... any ideas help please.....

A picture would help me a lot.

So far the biggest mistake I see people make is assuming that wood is an insulator at these voltages, it's not. Several folks have used threaded rod attached to the base to support the collectors, this won't work, they must be supported by a high dielectric material like fiberglass.

The other thing to look out for is edges and points, these will bleed of voltage faster than you can make it.

But send me some pics at jake@vonslatt.com and I'll do my best to figure out what's wrong.

 

Cheers!

 

Jake.

 

Hi, my grandson and I too is building one but we can't get any spark out of it. We're using 1/16 thick acrylic
maybe it is too thin?? my disk is 14'' diameter my collector is copper so as my rod to the leyden jar. Our
collector is made out of aluminum tape is about 1-1/2 on top and 3/8 on bottom. Total sectors are 16 maybe
the disk is too thin?? need help...

thanks for your help....

anyone can I get respond from anybody ??? .....help

did you get any response from anybody or even jake so far nobody responded to my mine. This site sucks
nobody cares looks like we duped to signing up to this lousy website...this site sucks!!

I'm sorry you feel that way. This site is my hobby, I work a fulltime job and I can't always respond to people right away.
1/16" disk should be fine, in fact the thinner the better as long as they spin freely.
The most common issue I see is mounting the metal collector rods directly to the base. At these voltages wood is not an insulator.
Send me a pic at jake@vonslatt.com and I'll see if I can figure out what's wrong.
Cheers,
Jake.

the Balusters I supported with long screws lag bolts to the wooden base is this what you mean is wrong
the shafts are snow pole markers

we finally got about a 1/2 spark today

now we try to get a larger spark thanks

can you tell me how thick is your disk mine is only 1/16 thick and I can't get it to spark.....

i live in ontario, canada, and can not find the belt you are mentioning, what size and type of belt am i to look for, and would home depot have it

I have built the machine as you described. When I first cranked it over, there was a big blue spark. The spark changed to light blue and now nothing. I can smell the ozone in the air when turning. What I am not sure of is how close the combs should be to the spinning wheels. Its got to be something easy, just can not get it. When the foil is in front of the combs, where should the other two contacts be?

Ron

If you want send me postage and i'll send you the rest of the o-rings I used for free
toc442@aol.com

i am copying this to your email, i live in ontario, canada, so how much postage do you want, and where do you want it sent to