Gothic Revival
Jake von Slatt — Tue, 01/05/2010 - 19:42
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I've been thinking a lot about Goth lately. I missed the advent of Goth almost entirely. In my youth I was a devotee of Punk and New Wave, a child of the second British invasion. Goth didn't really get going until just about the time I was entering the workforce and my own attentions were focused on coming to grips with adult life in a capitalist society. Thus, it wasn't until quite recently that I started paying attention to the Goth aesthetic and musical forms.
Right now some of you are nodding knowingly and some of you are looking puzzled. The puzzled ones are the folks who, like me, missed out on the Goth sub-culture and have no idea how closely Steampunk and Goth are related.
It's really a great shame that I so totally missed the advent of Goth, because I think I would have enjoyed being a part of the that community as I find that I really like a lot of the music as well as the dark aesthetic. Given the love I've always had for Hallowe'en, this should surprise no one.
Libby Bulloff, one of my fellow contributors here at The Steampunk Workshop, wrote a really nice piece titled Paint it Brass - The intersection of Goth and Steam which ran in SteamPunk Magazine #4. In Paint it Brass Libby catalogs some of the similarities of these sub-cultures, at one point she writes:
Goth borrowed the anti-establishment do-it-yourself attitude from 1970s punk and post-punk culture, married it to the lush and forbidden hedonism of glam rock, and swirled in a liberal dose of Romantic fashion stolen gracefully from the Victorians.
Sounds familiar, doesn't it? More recently, I read Jillian Venter's Gothic Charm School - An Essential Guide for Goths and Those Who Love Them. This is a book I had seen mentioned again and again in my twitterstream and finally just had to order. Gothic Charm School is ostensibly an etiquette guide for Goths, however, the advice given by "The Lady of the Manners" is entirely applicable to any subculture, including Steampunk.
Ms. Venters begins with a brief overview of the history of Goth and then breaks down, analyzes, and offers salient advice for many situations faced by those who look and act somewhat differently than the mainstream. Some sample chapter titles are: "Help! I'm a Goth and My Parent/Friend/Significant Other/Coworker Doesn't Understand Me!," "Goths and Romance," "Socializing, Cliques, and Gossip," along with others covering fashion, clichés, and club etiquette. Every sigle one of these chapters is filled with well written and highly entertaining advice that is just as apt for the Steampunk as it it for the Goth.
In fact, I'll be passing my copy on to my eldest daughter who, while neither Steampunk nor Goth, I am sure will find it full of most useful advice.
"Steampunk" as a made-up word is easily traced to it's origins, a letter from author K.W. Jeter to the editors of Locus magazine describing a nascent literary genre. But the moment that Steampunk morphed from a literary genre to something that people self-identified as, is harder to pin down.
Goth, on the other hand, has had more time to develop it's own creation myths. Ms. Venter's examines some of the classic touchstones of the Goth subculture in Gothic Charm School , she nutshells it thus:
The Goth subculture as it is known today began as an offshoot of punk rock that mixed a flair for the theatrical and a fondness of campy horror movies."
Ms. Venters goes on to single out the song Bela Lugosi's Dead by Bauhaus as signifying the start of Goth's "current dark flowering." She specifies current because she holds that Goth as an aesthetic influence has a far longer history. She goes on to cite the influence of Gothic architecture of the Middle Ages, and more to the point, the Gothic Revival movement of the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries.
Flowing from those influences we have the Gothic novels of the late ninetieth century, works such as Emily Brontë's Wuthering Heights, The Castle of Otranto by Horace Walpole, and of course Bram Stoker's Dracula and Mary Shelley's Frankenstein.

Moving into the twentieth century many of these novels were adapted into movies that become hits and all-time classic films. These later influenced the 1950's horror film genre Goth has such close alliance to and begot the television classics of the 1960's such as the Addams Family, The Munsters, and of course Dark Shadows.
If we accept the release of Bela Lugosi's Dead as Goth's seminal moment then Ms. Venters is correct when she says that "this current incarnation of the Goth subculture has been gliding around elegantly for almost thirty years now." She goes on to cite the movies of director Tim Burton calling them "key modern Goth touchstones" as evidence of Goth's influence in mainstream culture, these most notably being Beetlejuice and The Nightmare Before Christmas.
This was a bit of a "Eureka!" moment for me. You see, each and every one of these Goth touchstones has it's Steampunk analog. Steampunk as a literary genre was created in the 1980's, but the term has been expanded to include actual Victorian science fiction such as the novels of H.G. Wells and Jules Verne, books that were being written close to the same time as the dark novels cited as so influencing to the Goth movement. In fact, Mary Shelley's Frankenstein is oft sighted by both--though I'll bet that each subculture has it's own ideas about of what lessons should be taken from that particular text.
These Victorian Science fiction novels also inspired some absolutely classic films in the twentieth century. Films like The Time Machine, Journey to the Center of the Earth and most notably, Disney's 1954 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. These in turn, went on to inspire and inform television show's like Wild, Wild, West in the 1960s and later series such as Q.E.D., The Secret Adventures of Jules Verne, and The Adventures of Brisco County Jr. just as their Gothic equivalents did.
Things do break down a little when one tries to tie Steampunk back to an equivalent of Gothic architecture and the Gothic Revival movement of the 19th century. But perhaps if you allow that the aesthetics of the technology in development during the industrial revolution are what most informs the Steampunk aesthetic and that these styles were indeed heavily and directly influenced by the Gothic, as anyone can see with briefest glimpse of some of the great steam engine cathedrals of the time that this is true, it is not so difficult a stretch.

So what does this all mean for Steampunk? I honestly don't know but I hope that it's an indication that it will continue to grow and increasingly influence the mainstream as Goth has. It also gives me hope that Steampunk will continue to develop core philosophies that go beyond the aesthetics and fashion.
It's often said that Goth is all about the music and fashion and is largely apolitical and lacks social activism. While that may seem to be true on the face of it, I think I have to strongly disagree. While it may be that Goths do not champion a specific cause, or battle a particular foe, it's very clear to me even after brief exposure that they value individuality, tolerance, creativity and respect for human feeling. Any movement that promotes such values among it's members does great social good.
Maybe Steampunk's role will be similar, perhaps with an appeal that will draw in folks with a more technological bent who will take things in a slightly different direction. I also will not be at all surprised if an increased interest in Steampunk results in a resurgence of Goth as people discover, and follow, the cross-over memes. I know that my recent music purchases have been mostly Goth Industrial bands and that recent clothing purchases have been running about 50/50 between the black and the brown.
In any case, 2010 promises to be an exciting year!

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I don't mind
Sangori — Fri, 01/08/2010 - 18:44I don't mind at all if you address this in your next post. I look forward to it!
How to balance your aesthetic and your work life?
Sangori — Fri, 01/08/2010 - 10:43I don't mean to derail too much here, but it is the question I keep asking myself when I read the articles on steampunk and goth fashion. How do you really, I mean really, incorporate your subculture style into your everyday work life?
Call me a fence-straddler, (I have come to terms with the fact that I am) but I am having real trouble finding a way to incorporate my love of steampunk inspired Victoriana with my work wardrobe in a way that puts off a fully professional image. Being that I have a toddler at home and don't get out much other than to go to work I have to express myself through fashion mostly in a work-appropriate way. While in a creative field, I do spend my nine-to-five in an office environment. I certainly have a found a few choice pieces that do cross between work and steam well enough, and I have a covet/shopping list of a few more (think tall brown boots, tweed skirts and vests, a herrigbone newsboy cap and camel coat to brave the cold weather in). However, while I feel confident in my steampunk styled toggs I can't help but worry that my sense of theme dressing comes off as a bit costumey to my employers and colleagues.
Is my worry more a facet of being unwilling to fully commit to the cultural aesthetic of steampunk style, or something more valid that others struggle with?
Again, sorry to derail, but with such a panel of seasoned experts I couldn't help but take the opportunity to ask my recurring question.
Sangori, do you mind if I
Libby Bulloff — Fri, 01/08/2010 - 18:07Sangori, do you mind if I address this question in my post today? It's a very good question.
Goth and Steampunk crossovers
Baralier — Thu, 01/07/2010 - 12:44I still think of myself as goth, though it's been years since I've been to a club or something. Started in the early 90s and I'm still at it. Goth had it's variations - there were the "High goths" who did the velvet and lace and often had immaculate make-up (even the guys), the grunge goths who were virtually punks in black and the cyber goths who used to have the thing for latex and neon-rubber hair attachments.
But as with all things, time moves on, people leave the scene and new ones come into it, bringing with them their ideas about what was and wasn't goth. I've often likened the argument about defining steampunk as the same as the one trying to define what goth music is - and Goth has been around for 30 years arguing the point!
(As for its origins I'd argue for a huge helping of the New Romantic movement in there)
Some of the preconceptions of steampunk have taken root in similar ways to goth - I've given up counting the number of times someone will make a comment on http://community.livejournal.com/steamfashion/ about taking a lovely Victorian styled dress and dying it BROWN!
As with goth, steampunk has its factions: Those who believe you have to make in order to be steampunk, those who believe it must have a historical basis, those who just want to be involved because it's "cool" and host of others.
Both goth and steampunk draw heavily on the Victorian aesthetic either from an embrace of the morbid or an embrace of the technological. In many ways it's the external appearance that only separates the two.
Still blown away by Ms. Bulloff's photos, BTW.
Technogeek — Wed, 01/06/2010 - 14:11(No other content, just envy -- of the photographer's skill, and of the model's having the opportunity to see these views of himself.)
Well, shucks.
Libby Bulloff — Fri, 01/08/2010 - 02:53Well, shucks. Thanks, gentlemen. Jake was a blast to shoot.
--libby, your resident goth and steampunk and photographer person
Oh Dude! you have no idea!
Jake von Slatt — Wed, 01/06/2010 - 14:32Oh Dude! you have no idea! :-) The rest are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/exoskeletoncabaret/sets/72157622561812501/
Goth Makers.
Professor Georg... — Wed, 01/06/2010 - 13:05What do you wish to know, Jake?
I've been involved in goth since 2005, and always made things as part of the punk DIY ethic that I feel should be inseperable from it, and I believe you're already aquainted with that great doyenne Lillibat who has maintained an instructional website of ways to make and modify clothes for great gothic joy since sometime in the ninties.
As much as I enjoyed my past
LuckyKojak — Wed, 01/06/2010 - 12:25As much as I enjoyed my past "goth phase," I feel sorry for the modern goths. We've reached an unfortunate point in time where two things have happened:
1- Mass-consumption fads like "Hot Topic" and the Twilight books/movies have bastardized the goth-scene therefore making it "chic" and THEREFORE illegitimizing it, and
2- The line between goth and emo (at least in the States) has been significantly blurred to the untrained eye. I, for one, would take a cynically blank goth kid over a teary emo kid any day. I think the source of the problem stems from people who "at the core of their being" were emo before emo came about; and therefore falsely assumed they were goth.
I honestly wish there was something that could be done to fix these issues but I'm not holding my breath. Anyone constructed a steampunk time-machine yet?
Remember, Wells' original time machine was written in 1895...
Technogeek — Wed, 01/06/2010 - 14:08(though the "home year" for the story isn't clear, as I recall). So I would guess he imagined it as some combination of steam/clockwork technology and the cutting-edge physics/optics/electrical knowledge of his time. Which probably would make it steampunk as seen from our vantage point.
I had a sudden vision of crossing the movie version of the machine, which had a large rotating disk at the back, with Jake's Wimshurst machine design. Seems to me that on that scale you could build up a really scary charge pretty quickly...
I have had the same vision,
Jake von Slatt — Wed, 01/06/2010 - 18:42I have had the same vision, but I think we're talking about a Steampunk electric chair here--DO NOT WANT.
Depends on what it's discharging into
Technogeek — Wed, 01/06/2010 - 20:18Bending/breaking time _would_ take dangerous amounts of energy. The question is whether that energy can be controlled well enough, long enough.
(Yeah, I know. I wouldn't try it in the real world without serious precautions, and I don't think you could actually make a time machine that way. But in the Steampunk milieu, why not believe that someone found a way to do it? It's no less credible than most of the other technological fantasy...)
Goth & Steampunk
matteus — Wed, 01/06/2010 - 02:27I have almost the opposite of your experience having bought 'Bela Lugosi Is Dead' on 12" when it came out and been a punk/goth at the time but only recently discovered Steampunk.
My observations are that both share some common ideas - a strong sense of dress and visual identity being central to belonging for example - and in a sense are both 'punk' spiritually being a rejection of everyday conformity.
My take on Goth is that at its root it is about embracing Thanatos, the death urge, as rejection of the usual social expectations and although this has spawned a lot of creativity over the last 30 years it isn't naturally associated with the kind of creative drive I see in Steampunk so far. Steampunks restless spiritual urge to invent and reinvent, which I love, can't be seen in the same light because it seems to celebrate the act of invention rather than destruction.
The level of repulsion for modern society seems different in both and also seems to come from a disgust with people on one hand (Goths) and the lack of craft and creativity in modern mass produced technology on the other (Steampunk).
Serious debate over a few pints may be required. Thanks for a very thought-provoking piece.
Look, a nutshell!
Libby Bulloff — Fri, 01/08/2010 - 02:58What steampunk and goth both have in common, at the very core of their being, is that they encourage the synthesis and discovery of beauty in things that would otherwise be considered detritus.
Out of chaos comes order, and with destruction comes creation, as it were.
Trust an artist to find the common stylistic element...
Technogeek — Fri, 01/08/2010 - 11:25... By george, I do believe you've hit upon it.
Goth Makers . . .
Jake von Slatt — Wed, 01/06/2010 - 10:20That's interesting. You might be seeing some cross-talk between Maker/Geek and Steampunk culture too. Hmm, now that idea makes me want to seek out Goth Makers.
Ah yes, Castle Frankenstein
Technogeek — Tue, 01/05/2010 - 20:01I had occasion to visit when I was in Frankfurt on a business trip. Very atmospheric, though in fact most of what's there now is a folly -- only the chapel actually dates back to when the family lived there.
For those who don't know, the historical Frankenstein was reportedly a chemist (alchemist? There wasn't much difference at the time; Newton practiced alchemy) and had done some experimenting with the galvanic response of muscles. I don't know whether he patronized resurrectionists as well... but one can easily see how this combination of interests could give him a certain reputation in the area, which Ms. Shelley could then enlarge upon to create her classic horror/morality tale.