Connections: Fashion, Social Networking, and Fabbing
Jake von Slatt — Thu, 01/21/2010 - 11:15

Source: AYYA Wear
This morning I awoke to find that one of my bots had alerted me that someone at the Wall Street Journal used the word "Steampunk" in an article in the Fashion section. It was only a brief mention:
A chief executive in the tech business may don Gap chinos and a blazer for work, while investment banking chiefs remain loyal to their Zegna suits. Others dress according to the mores of their own personal tribes: If you don't dress steampunk, you may not even know it's a style (think 19th-century mad scientist in leather waistcoat with goggles and a pocket watch).
However, what really caught my eye was the previous paragraph:
Rather than fuss about skirt lengths or the season's silhouette, people now dress the way they see themselves, choosing looks that flatter their bodies and fit their lifestyles. Most of us dress with our social groups or professions, rather than fashion trends, using clothes to flash messages about who we are.
This resonated strongly with me and echoes an ongoing conversation that Libby and I have been having about fashion being the original form of social networking. The author used these thoughts to explain the subject of the piece which was the death of trends and the struggle that the big fashion cartels are having with the fact that their carefully managed seasonal campaigns have far less of an impact then they used to and that "everything is now in style."
My take-away is that the fashion industry is starting to fracture like the music industry, and for the same reasons. Just like the music industry, big fashion set themselves up to be the gate keepers and attempted pick and choose a few big names to promote as well as plan the season style trends to ensure a steady revenue stream.
However, pressure from indie designers utilizing on demand manufacturing, fabrication, and customization means that small companies can respond almost instantaneously. Like those boots the Romulans wore in Start Trek? AYYA Wear will whip you up a pair custom made with your choice of leathers in 4 to 6 weeks.
There is also pressure from the DIY community. Just as some indie bands decided to self-distribute their music, indie designers are going direct to manufacturers overseas or are producing high quality and unique items in the own homes. Of course it's the internet that fuels this. Designers have more direct access to manufacturers than ever. Sites like Etsy and eBay give these designers a ready marketplace for their goods and the vast array of fashion niche sites like Haute Macabre and Outsapop become the guides for the fashion and styles that the social "tribes" desire.
So, what we have is the intersection of fabbing, custom manufacturing, DIY and online social networking creating disruptive change and shifting the control of trends from corporations to the individual. Yeah! I frakk'n love this stuff! Imagine now a technological ecosystem of open source computer aided clothing design tools--3D CAD that let you create a virtual dressmaker's dummy on which you design your garment. Once designed, you output a cut file and bring it and some cloth to your local hackerspace where you can cut it in a minute or two on their CNC laser cutter and then maybe you hang out and drink coffee with other hackers and sew it together or you take it home to construct. In the end you have something absolutely unique that fits you perfectly and sends exactly the message you want to the world.
Do such tools exist? I don't know. I'd guess there are commercial design packages, are there any open source tools for clothing design? I bet there will be soon, and I can't wait.
So, what does a company do when the competition is untouchable because it is so diverse, pervasive, and disapperate? LOL! Marketing of course! And what if your current target demographic, in this case women, are the some of the key drivers of the change that is hurting your business model?
Cue evil laugh Mwah hah ha ha . . .
But there's one fashion segment where trend is increasingly dominant: menswear, where pleats are "out" and trim, flat-front pants are "in," says Andy Gilchrist, author of "The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes" and founder of the "Ask Andy" Web site. "It seems," he says, "that the designers and retailers are trying to get men into that 'old' women's fashion trend cycle."
You have been warned.
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It's A Series Of Tubes, Jake!
Ethyl Cannes — Mon, 01/25/2010 - 10:25WRT clothing pattern software, you asked "Do such tools exist?"
And I can only respond with "They don't need to."
While technology such as CAD software and laser cutting machines can
certainly assist the Maker of Clothing with making things *faster*,
the only tools *required* for creating clothing are a flexible
measuring device of some sort (usually a tape measure) and a pair of
scissors. Everything else is just gravy.
Think about it: It's only in the last 200 years that the Common Person
has become acclimated to this idea that clothing is something made
outside of the home. Prior to the Industrial Revolution almost every
item of everyday use was produced by family members, many of whom were
not only illiterate but had no formal education in arithmetic or
geometry. Sure, there've been Specialist Tailors for at least 1000
years who would produce out-of-the-ordinary or high-end "couture" for
those who had the money to pay, but in general your wife, your sister
or your mom produced your day-to-day clothing. With no training beyond
what they in turn learned from other family members.
As a former Fashion Student, I can assure you that anyone can learn
not only basic clothing-assembly techniques, but also the craft of
draping a three-dimensional human figure with two-dimensional pieces
of cloth to produce a desired end.
To use a metaphor you might be more familiar with, I'll use an example
from my own life: When the World Wide Web first came in to creation,
we all wanted a piece, and vanity pages became all the rage. While
some folks probably learned HTML code in a class, the vast majority of
us (myself included) learned HTML by viewing the source code of a
website and tinkering it to create different effects. There were
certain rules we had to follow or the whole thing would break, but
once you learned those basics (close your tags!) you could impress
your own aesthetic control over the output.
So to utilize this metaphor, imagine that an item of clothing is a
website (Old school, HTML-based. I've yet to grasp CSS so I'm not even
going to touch that.) and that certain tags control certain results.
If you look at the "source code" by either taking apart a shirt or
analyzing it's different parts, you can replicate it using the same
rules, and tinker with the aesthetic output. Take out your favorite
shirt and lay it flat. Flip the collar up and look at what that
pattern piece looks like flat. Kinda different from what it looks like
while worn, yeah? Now if you're trying to replicate it you can play
with the height of the piece, or the edge treatment, or the points,
but it's still going to behave a lot like the first collar once you
put it on the body. It's actually going to be harder to completely
"break" the second collar than it would be to break a web page.
And THAT is actually making it even more complicated than it needs to
be. You can start with absolutely no basic model and cut out pieces of
fabric, tweaking and draping (yes, that's a technical clothing design
term) each piece on to the body, pinning it all together, until you
get the shape you want. No special tools or knowledge required.
Patternmaking and clothing assembly is a very intuitive craft, because
it doesn't need to be more complicated. Getting our brains and hands
to wrap a two dimensional object around a three dimensional one is
SUPER EASY, and in fact way, way easier than the amount of programming
it takes to get a computer to do the same task.
Does the software to do this exist? Sure. I have some called
PatternMaster that's pretty nice. And really expensive. And doesn't
run on a Mac so I haven't used it in a while. I'm about 100 times more
likely to just bust out a piece of fabric and start hanging it on my
body until I get it to be the shape I want.
Some basic geometry can help, sure. If you really look at a pair of
pants it's really just two tubes that have been connected and had the
crotch excess removed. A pull-over shirt is one big tube with two
smaller tubes attached. A dress is a long version of that. A skirt is
a tube squinched in at the top. You can start with these tubes and
shape them by creating darts or additional seams, and with enough
tweaking it will wind up looking like clothing. I guarantee it.
Unfortunately the last 200 years of mass-production has created a
population that has ceased to use their brains in this way, because if
you're just busting these tools out for the first time it's going to
take you a while to learn how to use them and some people see this as
a monumental obstacle. But they're there, I promise.
We've already got the tools, we just need to get over the fear of using them.
I agree with just about
Jake von Slatt — Mon, 01/25/2010 - 10:37I agree with just about everything you've said, but I'm talking about something a little different, I think.
The music analogy is apt. The industry had a lock on what music became popular because they controlled it's distribution and promotion. When the tools for making, distributing, and promoting music became cheap enough--those tools being PC based mixers and sound editing and the web for promotion--bands could strike out on their own and actually make a living without signing with a record company.
For a designer to do the same they'll need access to the fashion analog of those sound editing and mastering tools.
You're right that everyone can make clothing and that it's a craft that use to be part of our daily lives. But that was true of music as well, we used to make our own. Both are things we should do again, in fact I start piano lessons in two weeks! But I am not going to be playing for my supper anytime soon.
It seemed at first you were
Ethyl Cannes — Tue, 01/26/2010 - 16:55It seemed at first you were talking about small indie designers who would be micro-producing ("indie designers are going direct to manufacturers overseas or are producing high quality and unique items in the own homes."), but then it seemed like you started talking about individuals who just wanted to make clothing for themselves ("In the end you have something absolutely unique that fits you perfectly and sends exactly the message you want to the world.") It was that latter idea I meant to address. With the former, I mentioned that tools (such as PatternMaster) already exist, and I think are a relatively low-cost investment if you're starting up a business.
I will say that the idea of a community shared-craft space* that was the textile-art equivalent to places like Design Annex in Union Square would be downright awesome.
* For some reason the word "hackerspace" to apply to textile arts makes absolutely no sense to me. "Hacking" is, as I understand it, more about modding and rebuilding, not creating from scratch. I guess you *could* stretch the definition of "hacking" by saying that flat, 2-dimensional fabric is "hacked" in to a new, modified, 3d shape, but that seems like kind of a pointless exercise in linguistic acrobatics.
I think we're a little behind
Jake von Slatt — Tue, 01/26/2010 - 17:05I think we're a little behind here in Boston when it comes to hackerspaces. Noisebridge in San Fran is probably one of the most famous but Seattle has at least 3 including the brand new Jigsaw Renaissance which aims to be seriously multi-disciplined and community facing. Check them out!
I think you'd be surprised.
Ethyl Cannes — Tue, 01/26/2010 - 17:14I think you'd be surprised. It may be a product of a combination of our Yankee Reserve and our ridiculous real estate prices that such places just aren't a) advertised as widely, and b) as "Come one, come all", open-door-policy as the places on the West Coast. I don't want to point any fingers, but I know a Philosophical Bird Of Prey who has a VERY awesome workspace that any dedicated Maker could buy in to (AFAIK, don't quote me on that).
Everything old is new again
businessgypsy — Fri, 01/22/2010 - 08:31There was an interesting article in the NY Times in June, covering fashion and interior space using the buzzword "authenticity".
http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2009/07/29/garden/20090730-PREWAR_index.html?ref=garden
At age 53, this is the third iteration of this trend I've seen in my lifetime, but the embrace of retail level CAD tools and communication among aficionados via the internet make things so much smarter this go round.
Curiosity fed the dog. Thanks for another great article!
In terms of tools for that
solidsquid — Thu, 01/21/2010 - 14:47In terms of tools for that kind of work, Blender 3D and Google Sketchup are both free 3D programs, and Sketchup has a plugin for unwrapping a model (for papercraft). Don't know if it would be entirely realistic for doing clothing designs though, since it works with polygons. Blender offers polys or NURBS, which would probably be a better choice as it consists of building a 3D model out of large planes rather than small squares (more like sheets of cloth). I don't know if there's anything yet which could export that, but I wouldn't be surprised if there was a way to do it