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Toyota Yaris Battery Light On - Repair

Jake von Slatt — Mon, 11/02/2009 - 14:22

The day after I returned from SteamCon in Seattle I got into the car to go to the day job and discovered that my battery light was on in my 2007 Toyota Yaris.  Being an old Volkswagen man I resisted the urge to get out and hammer on the the alternator with a monkey wrench.  Instead I turned everything off and then listened carefully to the engine RPM as I turned on the rear window defroster.  When I pressed the defrost button the engines revs did indeed drop about 100 and the engine lugged for a moment until the ECU gave it a bit more gas to smooth out the idle.  Good. This exercise told me that the alternator was charging the battery and that the problem was with the warning light itself. I could safely drive the car for the rest of the week and figure things out at my leisure.

This morning I started working the problem . . . by googling "toyota yaris battery light comes on" which lead me to this Technical Service Bulletin EL002-07 Charging System Warning Light "on" .  I removed the alternator from the car and disassembled it as per the TSB and discovered corrosion exactly as described.  The suggested action was to replace the regulator assembly but, radical makerpunk that I am, I decided to repair it.

Only, it din't need repair.  I cleaned it up and scraped away all of the corrosion expecting to find bad connections that I could solder or otherwise fix.  Only there was no sign of any problem beyond the surface corrosion on what appeared to be contacts exposed to facilitate testing of the regulator during the manufacturing process.

I quickly came to the conclusion that the battery light was coming on due to conduction between these two test points caused by the build-up of  dirt on the surface of the regulator.

So, Toyota's suggested process for re-mediating a problem caused by a design flaw introduced to facilitate their manufacturing process is to sell you a replacement for a part that simply needs to be cleaned? Screw that!

 

I scraped out the corrosion with a sharp pick, and cleaned up the regulator with a stiff brush and some dish detergent and then filled the holes that were the culprit with some RTV to keep them from collecting the troublesome dirt.  I re-assembled the alternator and put it back in the car.  It started right up and no battery light!  Total repair time was about an hour.

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THANKS!!

Alex — Sun, 04/04/2010 - 16:41

Thank you so much for this post, you might saved me around 150 bucks for a rebuilt alternator. I just did your trick and the battery light is gone for now. This problem appeared after my dad told my girlfriend she could wash her engine with water and I wasn't there to watch her.... the alternator got flooded

We were about to order a new one but i saw this post so i wanted to try this out before replacing it. When i opened the regulator, it was really dirtier than your, so i cleaned it up and for now no more battery light.

Thanks a bunch!

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Awesome! I love comments like

Jake von Slatt — Thu, 04/08/2010 - 15:13

Awesome! I love comments like this, thanks for posting it!

Jake.

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thanks

abc — Thu, 02/25/2010 - 10:01

Thank you for your description of the repair. It gave me the confidence to attempt the repair on my own.

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Alternator rebuilding

rjnerd — Mon, 11/02/2009 - 15:46

The usual problem with rebuilding the integrated regulator/brush holder alternators, is getting the thing apart without breaking the brushes. The one I had to deal with, there were retainers to hold the brushes clear of the slip rings while assembling, but once pulled, there was no way to retract the brushes to get it apart again. Add the modern transverse engine/serpentine belt setup, and hands large enough to budge the bolts, are too big to fit in the available space.

When the G20 died (in the pouring rain, while working as the sag wagon on a charity ride) I was delighted to find out it was just some shorted cells (new battery) rather than dead alternator, which I remembered as a gold plated bitch to replace.

I suppose I have to break down and get myself a code reader, I have to clear codes on both cars now. (the battery change caused the chkeng light to come on, and the prius threw a code this morning)

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The Yaris' alternator came

Jake von Slatt — Mon, 11/02/2009 - 15:50

The Yaris' alternator came out quite easily, and the regulator, brushes and diodes are all readily accessible once the back cover was removed - I think this would be a really easy alternator to rebuild.

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rtv before testing?

johnm — Mon, 11/02/2009 - 15:05

Did you test the fix before you applied RTV? I'd be worried that the problem wasn't fixed and then you might have to scrape the RTV back off.

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It was clear that if it

Jake von Slatt — Mon, 11/02/2009 - 15:51

It was clear that if it wasn't fixed by cleaning only a new regulator would do - it's one solid plastic injection-molded piece.

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Excellent job on the fix,

Valdemar — Thu, 11/05/2009 - 19:05

Excellent job on the fix, I've worked as a wrench in the past for a toyota mazda and volvo dealer and the only things that ever got rebuilt were the engine and the transmission on the cars if they needed it while everything else was swapped out for new whether it could be rebuilt or not. Being a fan of modern tech but a lover of old school tech I am torn between the waste of modern because I would rather rebuild something if it breaks down and the reliability of old school because it doesn't to be rebuilt so often. Take my 96 caravan as an example, the transmissions on the 3.0L and up models is known for having to be rebuilt on a regular basis with some customers reporting the need to do so every 30k miles due to design flaws resulting in metal shavings, the 65 and 66 chryslers I had with the 727 auto trans would go on forever as would the 413 engines with the steel cranks which can be found in everything from trucks and boats and rv's to irrigation pumps even to this day.

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