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Bruce's Wimshurst Machine

Jake von Slatt — Mon, 11/09/2009 - 16:48

Bruce writes:

Hi Jake,

Attached are a couple current images of my 20 sector Wimshurst machine based on your construction article, with changes made as needed to suit locally available materials and to resolve some issues that showed up after the initial construction. 

Click through to the full set of pictures, this is a very elegant machine and some of Bruce's innovations make it superior to my own!

UPDATE: Plans for my Wimshurst Machine are now available here!

These are some differences in my machine from the construction article. The drive bands are 1/8" black braided cord with white strands inside from an army surplus store with the ends melted together. The current leyden jars are plastic toothpick containers on top of pieces of florescent light tube protector material salvaged from one of several protector tubing jars that shorted between the foil edges. The collector supports are pieces of small size PVC tubing with brass couplings hammered into the ends and glued with thin CA glue. The set screw collars are made from nylon spacers and 6-32 brass screws. 

Building and getting the machine operational was a lot of fun, debugging a few problems and getting the best out of it sometimes paid off in the end.

Bruce

 

Related Stories:

Bruce Sterling - The User's Guide to Steampunk
Rick's Wimshurst Machine
How to Build a Wimshurst Influence Machine - Operating the Machine
More Steampunkery from ModVic!
Make: Magazine - Build a Wimshurst Influence Machine
Scott's Wimshurst Machine!
Jake's Wimshurst Machine and How to Build It! (Part 1)
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Foil bands on my machine's Leyden jars

dragonrider — Sun, 01/10/2010 - 18:03

When I first built my machine I found after just a little operation there were small erosion holes forming in the outer foil sheets where the shunt ball ends contact the foil and got tired of replacing the foil. The simple cure I came up with was to make the replaceable foil bands seen on the Leyden jars on my machine. They protect the foil sheets on the jars from any dings and the slight erosion caused by the shunt balls contact the foil.

The same erosion still happens initially on the surface of the foil strips when they are first installed, then appears to stop once enough contact area has been made between the shunt ball ends and the foil strips. This has happened with both the toothpick holder jars seen in the photos of my machine and the new protector tubing jars with 2.5" wide foil. After several weeks of regular daily operation with both sets of jars there was no additional erosion in the foil strips after the initial small amoun.

Here's to make the foil strips...
Cut foil strips 2" wide. Fold the long edges in 1/2" from each side, then fold the strip in half again toward the previous folds to form a 4 layer strip 1/2" wide. Wrap the foil strip around the jar with the two edges down and the best looking side out and cut excess foil off so the ends overlap about 1/8". With the strip pulled tight around the jar so the ends are positioned where the visible end of the foil sheet is, tape the ends together,

Once the Leyden jars are in place on the machine, position the foil strips so the shunt ball end is centered on the strip, then put a piece of tape a bit wider then the strip over the strip's joint to keep it from moving.

Bruce

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Fluorescent light protector tube arcing through update

dragonrider — Sun, 01/10/2010 - 16:51

Wimshurst builders who have had problems with the fluorescent light protector tube Leyden jars arcing through the Polycarbonate material as I have might find this of interest.

I made another set of 7.5" long jars from the protector tubing per Jake's construction article but reduced the width of the foil sheets on the jars from 5" to 2.5" width 2" from the top. There has not been any arcing through the tube material after several weeks of operating the machine many times each day.

I first tried 3" wide foil 1.75" from the top for a few days without any arcing, but wanted slightly weaker sparks so tried 2.5" width and like the results.

With 20 sectors and 2.5" foil sheet width on the jars my machine produces consistent sparks up to 4", less consistent to 4.25", which is the limit for my machine before sector to comb arcing starts. Widening the discharge electrode gap far enough that the machine won't spark hasn't caused arcing through the tube material like as I had happen with 5" wide foil.

For those who want the most spark and feel like experimenting a bit, and don't mind making new jar tubes, try reducing the foil width 1/2" at a time from the original 5" until the arcing through stops. I only had enough protector tube material left on hand to try one new set of tubes so played it conservative started with 3".

Hopefully this will be of some help to others who have had the protector tubing arc through.

Bruce

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Wimshurst machine

James R. Bailey — Fri, 11/13/2009 - 18:47

I remember making my own Wimshurst machine for an assignment in 9th grade science class circa 1964. It was made of two 78 rpm records with aluminum foil cut into truncated triangles that were taped to the records. They revolved on a wooden dowel with wooden spools as spacers. I made a crank and devised a simple pully system with one of the rubber bands that turned the spools crossed in a figure 8 so the records revolved in opposite directions. The records were probably made of bakelite. Coat hanger wire held aluminum foil "brushes" and relayed the static electricity to coat hanger wire discharge points. The darned thing actually worked, and I got an A. From a long-time electronics buff geek and would-be steam punk...I guess.

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Great job James

dragonrider — Sat, 11/14/2009 - 09:13

Thanks for sharing about the machine you built, I can appreciate that kind of home-brew engineering. Though my machine is built for 14" disks following Jake's article, I first made 16 sector disks from a couple old 12" 33-1/3 vinyl LP records since I had them on hand, then after I got it working I took on making acrylic disks.

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